zomg mi corazon tiene luz!!! nOOOO!!! MAKE IT STOP!!!

For valentines day I dropped in on this lovely chick making her go over the falls. It's the only time I have ever seen her angry with me. The look on her face was priceless. Thing is she surfs as good as I do and when she did the Florida paddle around on a head high plus set, I decided to drop in anyways. While I was getting a great little tube, I could hear her getting worked going over the falls..... happy v-tines day my dear!!! I don't think I have said I am sorry so many times in my life.. Kudos to you my dear Francela! and for the photo above: We saw and photo and decided why not attempt to do our own version with a little twist.

Below photo for www.nosarashack.com.. the best freaking surf website in Nosara Costa Rica

Fui a Marbella con mis amigos hoy!

Micheal on the left and Alfredo on the right are two funny ass Ticos when you get them together. Alfredo climbed a twenty foot tree and kicked out pipa (coconuts) for everyone to eat and drink. Agua de Pipa ,like everyone here knows, is a natural energy drink and the meat is almost like a meal itself. What better way to start the surf session. I actually ate way too much after this photo. Good thing I shot photos for the next hour...


Micheal is young yet explosive. He rides a somewhat decent board but it's still broken in half. Imagine how he would ride on good equipment.


Alfredo's in the same boat. His boards are old but his style is explosive. Big turns and lots of reverses...

We are currently working on a plan to try and get these guys some good gear.

It's easy to spend your life in routine, but I am pretty sure life isn't routine. I heard a lady mention retired life here in Nosara, Costa Rica was not for her. She decided to move back to the US and start working again. It's a constant struggle for myself as well but working my ass off for nothing back home hardly seems like the solution for me. To each his own though. I am actually pretty convinced that, although my mother and father really seem to miss seeing me, they would be more upset to have me move back.






I surf. I have for many years. I am not the greatest but I know I am not the worst. Surfing has controlled every aspect of my life since I was very young. While I don't label myself as a surfer and my travel destinations are not always surf ones, I live for this shit. If I have a family it's important for them to be a part of it as well. It's a life full of health, nature, travel, people, motion, simplicity, and some of the most incredible sunrises and sunsets. A recipe for happiness in my eyes. I would love to have material things but I know myself. A week of having a brand new house I would get bored with it. I constantly crave new things and excitement verses consistency in this world.

Stay black yall!

ZOMFG! like, my camera is 900 megapixels and I have a 700mm zoom lens at 1.0. It takes photos by itself and puts them online while I sleep.....

nope, and if I had a darkroom and my 35mm I would be doing that over digital mundo. So pardon my color calibration on my 200$ laptop while I continue freeze moments

in time.


So hot, So dry, So Flat, June rains sound good about now..